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GRENADA
WITH CHRIS, CARIBBEAN |
The nation of Grenada consists of three islands: Grenada, Carriacou
and Petit Martinique. Its people are of mixed origins, though primarily
of African descent. The island is volcanic in origin with a central
ridge of mountains, the highest of which is Mount St. Catherine at 804
metres (2757 ft)
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Grenada has a bit of everything - beaches,
rainforests, mountains, a fascinating history and an unaffectedly
friendly people. We thought it would be the ideal location to spend time
with Chris.
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December 28
Chris Arrives at Prickly Bay!
We met Chris at the airport in Grenada, so happy to celebrate a
belated Christmas with him and spend 2 weeks showing him part of the
Caribbean wonders. |
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We had anchored in Prickly Bay on the southern end of
Grenada a week ahead to prepare for Chris' arrival. |
Prickly Bay is a convenient
anchorage with good holding, but it gets rolly during a southerly wind.
We were situated near a little beach between Prickly Bay Marina and
Spice Island Marina. (see pic above-
Ascension is marked with red arrow) "Marina" is a misnomer as there really isn't any dock facilities of
significance at either location. But they do provide good shore access
with dinghy docks and restaurants at both locations.
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December 29
St. Georges
We took a local "bus" (Mini Van) to St. George's. Buses all have huge
stickers on them announcing their names (Love-a-Lot, Rider, Obsession).
This form of transport is a cultural experience within itself. |
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The vans
give new meaning to carpooling, where 8 would sit comfortably, 12 would
be cozy and 20 is what the driver wants! Squashed in like tinned fish,
the thumping tunes provided by the driver gets the whole crowd into it -
dancehall music cranked up to 12, with the locals singing along. The
buses have normal routes but will detour to wherever you want to go. |
Passing modern shopping centres and the ever present favourite KFC's,
a mobile Pan Band resonated the Caribbean beat we have come to love. |
St. Georges, the capital of Grenada, is a classic Caribbean
city lying around an ancient, submerged volcano crater. Fort George
stands majestically on the hill overlooking the city. Georgian style
buildings line the harbour, most rebuilt since Hurricane Ivan flattened
the city in 2004. Stone churches, forts from a forgotten time and houses
of all colors meld into a hilly buffet of urban aesthetics. We strolled
along the Esplande past cruise ships, water taxis and fishing
boats bobbing in the port. |
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Walking through the Sendall Tunnel
brought us to the Carenage, a horseshoe shaped inner harbour and
the focal point of marine activity in St. Georges.
We found a dockside restaurant for a lunch stop, where the cooling
breeze was a great respite from the heat.
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It was a hot walk to the adjacent bay, especially since we missed our
turn and walked for several hours through an upscale neighborhood. |
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Happy Birthday Guys!
December 30, 2009
We had a dual birthday celebration for Gord & Chris complete with
cake. |
Interesting to see how the upper class Grenadians live but we were
grateful that there were cold drinks when we reached Mt. Hartman Bay.
Gord thankfully hugs the mermaid! |
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New Year's Eve
We spent the evening at De Big Fish Restaurant, Spice Island,
enjoying a meal of local cuisine and entertainment. British New
Year's was brought in at Greenwich Midnight (9 pm) which is
also Cruiser's Midnight!
We returned to the boat in time for an amazing display of fireworks,
a 360 degree display of pyrotechnics around Ascension,
light shows being set off from dozens of locations on shore!
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January 1
We thought this would be an ideal, quiet day to tour the
island. Not much traffic as everyone was recuperating from the previous
night's celebrations. We had arranged for a rental car to be delivered
but it was a no-show so after a walk to a backup rental agency, we were
on the road. |
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Grenada had a fiery
volcanic beginning but over the centuries its eroded volcanoes have been
overgrown by dense rainforest and numerous waterfalls. We headed along
the eastern coast of Grenada in search of one of these waterfalls.
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Concord Falls
We hiked down to Concord Falls where there was an inviting
swimming hole but we did not take advantage of it. The 100 foot cascade
is on private property so we had to pay a small amount for our visit.
The surrounding rainforest united flowering plants, ferns, palms and
fruit trees.
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Nutmeg trees are a
common site around the island. Grenada produces half the world's supply. |
Caribbean
political messages colourfully painted on buildings along the road. |
People were friendly,
the children shy
but curious.
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We drove
down the
coast through protected forest of bamboo, eucalyptus, ferns, and palms
of every size and shape. Hillside villages spilled down the tropical
slopes of banana and cocoa plantations. Bright buildings painted in
Caribbean colors.
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Gouyave
Gouyave is a small fishing village where yotties like to attend the
Friday Fish Feast.
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Carib's Leap
The
first people were Arawaks arriving from South America.
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Eventually they succumbed
to the Caribs. Rather than surrender to the French colonists in 1650, the Carib
Indians leapt to their death over this steep cliff face descending vertically
for more than 100 feet. |
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Rounding
the northern tip of Grenada, there were more sandy beaches, the surf
wilder on the Atlantic coast of the island. |
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Continuing our tour, we drove down the
eastern side of Grenada passing through Grenville before turning
inland to the Grand Etang
Forest Reserve.
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A sideroad led to the
Grand Etang Lake, over 1200 ft above sea level.
Legend has it that the lake is bottomless although it is 1740
feet above sea level.
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Grand Etang Forest Reserve
Grand Etang National
park encompasses 30 acres full of trails and wildlife. At the visitors
Center, Mona Monkeys brassily approached looking for a handout.
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Seven Sisters Waterfalls
We hiked to the Seven Sisters
Waterfall, escaping the pursuit of "guides" that insisted we
needed them to follow the well worn path for 45 minutes to the
waterfall!
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The waterfalls consist of a
series of falls, cascading into a cooling pool of water, where some
other visitors were taking a swim. It is possible to continue the hike
to the other falls but it was too hot for the steep climb further. |
Beachin' It!
We spent a few days soaking up the sun.
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Grand Anse Beach
2
miles of white coral sand beach, Grand Anse Beach is THE hangout
in Grenada.
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One day we lazed on the
little beach in Prickly Bay, "borrowing" some of the exclusive hotel's
lawnchairs, the boats silently bobbing at anchor around us.
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Molinere Reef Marine Park
We sailed up the Grenada coast past St. George's and anchored near
the Molinere Reef Marine Park. We had borrowed dive gear from
Grace and Gord took Chris on an introductory Scuba Adventure.
Unfortunately Chris' tank did not have much air so the dive did not last
long. But it was exciting for him to give diving a try.
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We snorkelled around the area where there are 67 underwater sculpted
statues planted in the Park. We found several of them along with some
colorful fish.
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We headed back
to Prickly Bay for our last night at
anchor. Sadly the time has come all too
quickly and Chris has to return to
Canada. We will miss him terribly. A
teary goodbye at the airport with hopes
that we will see each other soon.
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