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Oct 25
We motored through the night in
company with our US friends on Djarrka. Morning
brought dense fog and although Djarrka was only 1/8 mile
away, we could not see their boat. Sometime during the night,
Djarrka's fuel tank had sprung a leak and emptied
their diesel. This didn't leave them enough to motor the 4 days
to Canaries so we rejoiced when the wind finally filled in and
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We dodged lots of
fishing boats, nets 3 km long and ships (some 1 km long!) and
encountered other sailboats heading to the Canaries to join the
ARC race. This Atlantic Rally Crossing happens every year
from Grand Canary to St Lucia in the Caribbean. It costs $$$$ so
we are definitely NARC's!
Ascension partook in the very first ARC
race when its owners (whose name was Bailey, my maiden
name) sailed the boat from France where they bought it in 1984.
So Ascension had already done its circumnavigation
when we reached France! The strangest thing happened on the dock
in France when the light was hitting the boat a certain way and
a friend noticed something peculiar on the bow. He said "I see
the letters S-E-V-E-R-A-N-C-E underneath the name
ASCENSION. Our boat's name was "Severance"
when it left France all those years ago. We had never seen the
letters showing through before and haven't since!
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Nights on watch were quite cold so
we bundle up in a blanket in the cockpit. But the days were
still hot and so the shorts came back out. We were inundated by
thousands of bugs, biting flies, crickets, dragon flies,
butterflies, fleas and tiny fruit flies, to name just some! We
also had a tired little yellow bird try to land for a rest. Bear
in mind we were 50 miles off the African coast!
At 7 pm and we prepared for our third night at sea, motoring in
the fog again! It made it hard to see hazards in the water as
the wooden fishing boats don't show up on radar. The seas were
pretty flat so it was comfortable but we were wishing for wind
again.
Suddenly Gord was reaching for the
binoculars. "What in the world is that!" he exclaimed. As we
drew closer, we could see a large round orange ball floating in
the water. Atop was some sort of antenna, a beacon? and below, a
rope attached to something in the water. Bear in mind that this
was off the coast of Morocco and in the most active hashish drug
trading area in the world. We had heard stories of drops where a
spotter plane would retrieve the cargo. Needless to say, we
hightailed it out of the vicinity as quickly as we could.
All in all, we had a good trip to
the Canary Islands. Good thing we left when we did because the
bar across the Marina in Morocco has been closed ever since!!
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ISLA GRACIOSA
Playa Francesca
Oct 29
As we approached the island of
Graciosa, a lunar landscape emerged on the horizon, sandy low
volcanic cones, no vegetation in sight.. The island is only 6.5
km long and 3 km wide . We anchored in a protected little
bay called Playa Francesca. There were about 15 boats
anchored in the bay, only a few doing the ARC.
We were expected to check in with
the Policia at the nearby small town but we didn't have enough
gas to take our dinghy there. So we hitched a ride with
Djarrka, taking along our fuel jug to fill. |
The town was tiny with new small
white square buildings and streets of sand. Most of the
buildings seemed to be part of some sort of basic resort
complex. Overweight tourists basked on the beach.
The harbor was full of little
fishing boats enclosed by a seawall walkway.
We successfully completed our
checkin procedures, but our quest for gas was not so successful.
We discovered that there was no gas for sale on the entire
island. All the vehicles used diesel. |
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It was a pleasant
walk from the town back to the anchorage, along a sandy road and
deserted beach with a backdrop of vivid shapes of volcanic
landscape. |
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In the evenings everyone in the
anchorage went ashore for a beach get together. In addition to
the new group of friends we made in Morocco, there were cruisers
from Belgium, France, Spain, the US and even Indonesia. I really
wished that I knew more languages as most Europeans speak at
least 4 or 5. Everyone assumes that if we are from Canada we
should speak French!
Steve from Music supplied the
entertainment.
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Oct 30
12 of us congregated on the beach to
climb up to the top of the volcanic crater that overlooked the
anchorage. It was a long steep climb over loose shale and lava
but the view from the top was pretty spectacular. |
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We all took photos
of each other with the boats anchored in the bay far below
surrounded by the barren expanse of desert. |
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Sara & GB, Djarrka |
Yensen, Brian,
Mike,
Traveler |
Gord & Ginny |
Eva & Steve, Liz &
Tom |
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