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VIRGIN GORDA, BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS,
CARIBBEAN |
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Just 8 1/2 miles long, Virgin Gorda is the third largest in the
Caribbean island
chain. Its population is 3,500. Dramatic slopes plunge from Gorda Peak to the waters below with many
deserted beaches such as Savannah Bay, Handsome Bay
and Big Trunk Bay. |
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Feb 21-23
Drake's
Bay
Bad weather was on its
way so we made a quick departure from St. Martin. After a super-slow over-nighter with not enough wind
and banging sails all night, we happily arrived in the British Virgin Islands.
We anchored in Drake's Bay, which we remembered
from our previous cruising in the BVIs 12 years ago.
It was g reat to be there again! And the boat is working
fine.
Although the waves were
pounding outside the reef and the wind was howling all night, we sat flat as a
tack and had a very comfortable night. |
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Getting to Spanish
Town to check in proved more difficult than
anticipated. We preferred to be anchored in the
protected waters of Virgin Sound than in the exposed
waters outside Spanish Town. The ferry/taxi ride was
going to be $80 !! so we opted to rent a car with
Stardust for $50 and explored the island,
after our check-in procedures were finished.
We moved the boats over to the Bitter End and
picked our way through the mooring balls, finally
finding a spot to drop the anchor away from the
charter boats. |
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After a free ferry from
Bitter End Yacht Club to Gun Creek, Speedy's picked
us up with their bus. Although the other passengers each
paid $20 for their ride to Spanish Town, ours was free
because we were renting a car. The road to Spanish provided
fabulous views of
the gorgeous jewel blue and turquoise waters overlooking the bays. |
After formalities were
completed, we drove our big roomy 4 door Samrai jeep,
along the narrow road that cut
across the main part of Virgin Gorda. We stopped at all the
viewpoints to take photos but unfortunately the day was hazy
and didn't completely portrait the azure waters sparkling
with the jewel blues and turquoise depth contours. |
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Our drive took us through lazy
villages and past brightly painted shacks, my favorite being
the Hospital/Fire Department/Jail - Gone Fishing!! *
Above right: Savannah Beach is the
longest beach on Virgin Gorda.
We hiked to the tallest summit on the island, following a rocky creek-bed
like trail through the forest. At the lookout, there were a series of platforms
accessible by ladders so you could get a view over the tree tops. |
We explored
side roads that cut through the hillsides, covered with
mahogany, as they wound
their way to vantage points
overlooking Drakes Day, Leverick Bay, Mosquito Island and
the Sound. White sails peppered the tranquil turquoise
waters; amber reefs broke up the kaleidoscope of blues. |
The Baths
Our primary
destination was a visit to the Baths, huge
boulders that seem to have been arranged by a
playful giant to provide a myriad of rock pools,
secret beaches and trails. We had vivid
recollections of our last visit to the Baths and
we weren't disappointed the second time around.
more........
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Bitter End Yacht Club
Famous throughout
the Caribbean as a sailing destination, the
Bitter End Yacht Club has become a top-end
restaurant, expensive fine dining with a dress
code. |
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February 24
We hiked past the
Yacht Club, along a sandy road that lead to the
trail head that took us up and over the ridge to
Biras Creek. |
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Biras Creek
is a new luxury
resort with villas on the beach, a stable,
beach, tennis courts, marina and all the
amenities you can imagine. We were met at the
main road by some huge iguanas. We were told
that they liked to eat hibiscus flowers. So
armed with their favorite food, we soon became
friends! |
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A walk along a
logging road brought us to a resort that was
being built at Oil Nut Bay at the end of the
island.
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The route back to
Bitter End was along a trail through the
mangroves. We passed our boat lazily bobbing at
anchor. |
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After our long
hike, we deserved a cooling drink. Saba Rock,
the unique restaurant on the rock, was the
perfect spot! |
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Saba Rock
Saba Rock had been our
favorite haunt many, many years ago. But it was very
different then. We remember a shack on a rock. A
couple of barbeques. A cook flipping burgers. Our
legs dangling in the water as we ate our lunch
sitting on the edge of a narrow dock, not big enough
for tables and chairs.
Today, Saba Rock is a
complete resort, with luxury rooms, boutique shops
and sandy beach (!) and a HUGE restaurant. They
still serve the best "Painkillers" ever! (rum,
orange juice and coconut) |
The
Bitter End was getting far too crowded so we headed back to Drakes Bay. On the
adjacent Mosquito island, we hiked along a cobblestone walk that led to a
beautiful, palm fringed beach. However, we were told that the beach had been
rented to a private party and we had to climb up the hill to circumvent the area
so as not to intrude. The hike up was a little more challenging than anticipated
but the views at the top were spectacular, and me without my camera! It was an
interesting walk through the fan palms and spider plants, the leaves crunching
at our feet.
On our way back to the boat we explored the reef by dinghy to check out the
snorkelling potential. The reef was mostly grass and the home of giant turtles
that skittered by the dinghy. We were amazed how fast they could swim.
That evening it was yummy enchiladas aboard
Stardust, followed by game of Blokus, fast becoming a favorite
pastime.
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April 11, 2011
We hiked around
Virgin Gorda with Annie & Liam. Pictured right
is Biris Creek Resort.
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Leverick Bay
A night out with
entertainment by Michael Bean and the
Happy ARRRRH... Pirate Show. Great
Fun! A conch blowing contest brought out the hot
air in Gord!
We enjoyed drinks
while the sun set over the bay. |
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>>>Baths
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Norman Island >>> |
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